The unique city of Trieste is known for its unmatched beauty as it is for its relationship with the mystical Bora wind. They are inseparable. Trieste is the city of the Bora and the Bora is the wind of Trieste. When it arrives, the city wakes with an intense jolt. Residents love it and brave it, but cannot live without it; when it isn't blowing, they hope for its return. It is an essential element of this city, likely because it sparks real and intense emotions that few can ignore. When the Bora strikes through Trieste, it clears the sky resulting in an undeterred view of the mountains and the sea. No one can deny the extraordinary beauty it creates with its powerful gusts. Writers and poets, like James Joyce and Italo Svevo, have dedicated verses and passages to this wind, almost as if it were flesh and blood, but perhaps in reality it is even more, it is the spirit of Trieste. It is with this blustery inspiration and romantic mindset that made Oscar Farinetti open up the 34th location of Eataly in Trieste.
“Sono tante le storie di venti che si incontrano con il mare e con le tradizioni, dando origine a materie prime di qualità e prodotti enogastronomici d’eccellenza – said Oscar Farinetti - Eataly Trieste vuole raccontarle tutte, celebrando i prodotti figli del vento e la loro incomparabile bellezza”.
Built directly on the Rive in an old wine-bottling warehouse constructed in 1902, the space is elegantly restructured to give off a distinct Friulan vibe where customers can enjoy a lovely view of the port and the gulf. Internally, the artist Sergio Staino dedicated four installations celebrating the wind and the latest edition of the Barcolana, the famous sailing boat regatta which is hosted every year in the Gulf of Trieste.
While sizeably smaller when compared to most of the other 33 Eataly’s (think a quarter of Manhattan, Chicago and Torino), the space still holds seven serving stations through three floors, all of course promoting the best of Italian and Friulan gastronomy. The Osteria del Vento offers the typical cucina triestina, a delicious pastiche of Austro-Slavic-Italian rolled into one.La Barcaccia focuses specifically on fish while the Enoteca focuses on wine and beer, with a large selection dedicated to Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and an aperitivo bar. Illy, the famed Trieste coffee roaster, hosts the Gran Bar serving high-quality coffee and beverages. In triestin, an espresso is a nero, cappuccino is a caffe latte and a macchiato is a capo. Accompanying Gran Bar illy is Agrimontana’s artisanal gelato stand plus a chocolate kiosk by Domori, all with a beautiful view of the sea. Eataly offers cooking and tasting lessons year-round.
“Eataly Trieste vuole raccontare il patrimonio culturale ed enogastronomico che caratterizza un territorio molto particolare, senza confini, multilingue, multiculturale e multireligioso” explained Andrea Guerra, CEO of Eataly, “La ricchezza delle sue tradizioni è un patrimonio prezioso che Eataly si impegna a mettere in risalto ogni giorno con i buoni prodotti locali, le migliori ricette e approfondimenti didattici”.
Celebrating its tenth year in operation, Eataly now operates in nine countries and 28 cities with continued plans for expansion., including Canada. While Eataly Trieste is ecstatic after receiving over 10,000 visitors in their opening week plus a creation of over 100 jobs, many triestini are skeptical about the success of this new venture. As the Italian city with the second-most amount of citizens over the age of 65, Trieste and its citizens are aren’t always the most welcoming to change, especially after its takeover by four different entities during and after the Second World War. While the early numbers look good in Trieste for Farinetti’s brainchild, he surely hopes that the winds of good fortune will reign over the gastronomic market for years to come.