by Marco Giovanetti
Few people in the world anticipate Fall with more fevor than the piemontese. Fall symbolizes porcini mushroom season, and, notably, the return of the diamond edible funghi Tartufo Bianco. Since white truffles don’t grow in Canada and acquiring them requires a trustworthy supplier and small fortune, and lots of cash, this recipe will on wild mushrooms instead. Of course, be my guest if you want to track down a few grams of this gold mushroom and carefully shave them over the top of a steaming bowl of egg pasta (don’t forget to invite me!!). A unique decadent pleasure is sampling the flavor of fresh Tartufo followed by a sip of Nebbiolo.
To drink: Barbaresco or Barolo from Piedmont, Italy
Barolo gets most of the attention, but Barbaresco is a close second. While some wine experts employ gender to describe the two—the former considered manly, the latter more feminine—it’s better to describe the wines in terms of texture, structure, and approachability. Barolo is more powerful and tannic, and as a result needs an extra year of aging. Barbaresco is early drinking, with less tannin on the palate. Both are known for their deep complexity and long-cellaring potential, along with that textbook nose of rose and cherry. Nebbiolo combined with the earthiness of mushrooms remains one of the classic food pairings of the world.
Two excellent Barolos to try:
Barolo Azelia 2013. SAQ # 13686128, $52.50
Aromas of tamed leather complemented by mint , dried rose petals and church incense. Dense and structured with fine tannins. Buy a few and keep it for the next decade
Barolo Rocche Dell’Annunziata Aurelio Settimo 2011. ( Private Import, $65, https://www.vitisagencedevins.com)
Mountain wet leaves with mushroom underbrush. A touch of porcini cream as well. Elegant and beautiful with a finale that brings to mind soy and hoisin sauce. For an excellent recipe of this dish, please consult the recipe of my fellow colleague Vanessa Gianfrancesco at: https://www.panoramitalia.com/index.php/2018/08/23/wild-mushroom-and-truffle-tagliatelle/
Happy Tastings and Buon Appetito!!